The Empress Hotel: A Complete Guide to Victoria’s Iconic Landmark

Since its opening in 1908, the Fairmont Empress has anchored Victoria’s Inner Harbour as a grand railway hotel, surviving demolition debates and three major restorations to become a National Historic Site of Canada. This guide draws on the hotel’s official history, verified renovation records, and published accounts to help you plan your visit—whether you are curious about the dress code for afternoon tea, the story of Queen Elizabeth II’s stay, or the ghost of a chambermaid named Lizzie.

Last checked: 2026-07-21

Hotel name: Fairmont Empress · Address: 721 Government St, Victoria, BC V8W 1W5, Canada · Phone: +1 250-384-8111 · Website: fairmont.com/victoria · Number of rooms: 464 · Dining: Lobby Lounge, Q at the Empress, Afternoon Tea

Can you walk around the Empress Hotel?

Yes—the Empress is open to the public. As a National Historic Site of Canada, its grounds and lobby are freely accessible to anyone who wants to explore the Edwardian château-style architecture designed by Francis Rattenbury (Fairmont Empress). Non-guests can enter through the main entrance on Government Street and walk through the lobby, which retains Gothic flourishes and Tudor arches noted by Historic Hotels Then & Now.

Public access to grounds and lobby

The lobby is open to visitors during daytime hours. You can view the Crystal Ballroom—where the Prince of Wales danced until dawn in 1919—and the corridor leading to the Lobby Lounge. Photography is permitted in public areas, though the hotel requests guests be respectful of staff and privacy of registered guests.

Photography policies

Photography for personal use is allowed in the lobby, public lounges, and exterior grounds. The hotel does not publish specific rules on video or flash photography, so discretion is advised in dining areas during service hours. The bottom line: you can walk through the hotel at no cost, but access to guest-only floors and the spa requires a room key or appointment.

Is there a dress code at the Empress Hotel?

Yes, the Empress enforces a dress code, particularly for its dining venues. For afternoon tea in the Lobby Lounge, the hotel recommends smart casual attire. According to editorial coverage on Vancouver Planner, sportswear, beachwear, and overly casual clothing are discouraged.

Dress code for Lobby Lounge

The Lobby Lounge, which serves afternoon tea and light meals, requires guests to wear shirts and closed-toe shoes. Jackets are optional for men, but ripped jeans, swimwear, and athletic shorts are not permitted. The hotel’s own website states that a “smart casual” standard applies across its indoor dining spaces.

Attire for afternoon tea

For the signature afternoon tea service, guests are expected to dress in neat, presentable clothing. Many regulars wear collared shirts, blouses, and dress shoes. A sun hat or fascinator is not required but is not uncommon among local patrons.

The implication: if you plan to have afternoon tea, pack a collared shirt or blouse and closed-toe shoes—this will meet the requirement for every public dining area.

Did the Queen stay at the Empress Hotel?

Yes, Queen Elizabeth II stayed at the Empress during at least one royal tour. Her first visit to Victoria was in 1959, and she reportedly occupied the hotel’s Royal Suite, a two-bedroom corner suite with views of the Inner Harbour. The Queen’s suite was renovated as part of the 2017 “Return of the Queen” restoration (Fairmont Empress).

The hotel’s royal connection is part of its marketing identity. The “Return of the Queen” campaign was a direct reference to the Queen’s association with the property. The pattern: each generation of the royal family has left its mark on the Empress, from the Prince of Wales’s late-night dancing to the Queen’s suite.

Is afternoon tea at the Empress worth it?

Afternoon tea at the Empress has been served since the hotel opened on January 20, 1908. The service now hosts more than 400 guests per day during summer months—a volume that exceeds many London tea rooms (Fairmont Empress). The tea includes finger sandwiches, scones with clotted cream and jam, and a selection of French pastries, with seasonal ingredients sourced from Vancouver Island.

What to expect

Guests are seated in the high-ceilinged Lobby Lounge, with views of the Inner Harbour. The service includes a pot of loose-leaf tea from a curated list, a three-tiered stand of savouries and sweets, and a glass of sparkling wine in the “Royal Tea” upgrade. The menu changes seasonally but always features classic cucumber sandwiches and fruit scones.

Price vs experience

An afternoon tea booking at the Empress is priced at a premium compared to other tea services in Victoria. However, reviewers on TripAdvisor consistently note the experience as a highlight of a trip to the city.

Tips for booking

Reservations can be made through the hotel’s website or via telephone. The hotel advises booking at least two weeks ahead for summer dates. Dress code applies: smart casual is required. Guests with dietary restrictions (gluten-free, vegetarian, vegan) should mention them when booking, as the kitchen can accommodate with advance notice.

The bottom line: If you value a historic, high-volume tea service in a heritage setting, the Empress delivers a polished experience—but it is priced accordingly and requires planning.

Hotel features and amenities

The Empress offers 464 guest rooms, an indoor pool, a health club, and the Willow Stream Spa (VictoriaBC.ca). The hotel also houses two restaurants: the Lobby Lounge (casual) and Q at the Empress (fine dining). The spa, added during the $45 million Royal Restoration in 1989, offers treatments using locally sourced natural products.

Our take: who should book the Empress?

Location and getting there

The Empress is located at 721 Government Street in downtown Victoria, directly facing the Inner Harbour. Victoria International Airport (YYJ) is about 30 minutes away by car or taxi. BC Ferries from Vancouver arrive at Swartz Bay, about 30–40 minutes north of the hotel by bus or car. Public parking is available on Government Street and in nearby municipal lots.

Sample one-day itinerary at the Empress

1. 10:00 a.m.: Arrive and check in. Walk through the lobby and Crystal Ballroom.
2. 11:30 a.m.: Book a spa treatment at Willow Stream Spa (reservations recommended).
3. 1:00 p.m.: Afternoon tea in the Lobby Lounge (smart casual dress required).
4. 3:30 p.m.: Walk along the Inner Harbour to the BC Legislature buildings.
5. 6:30 p.m.: Dinner at Q at the Empress (jacket preferred for men).
6. 9:00 p.m.: Evening stroll for photos of the hotel’s ivy-covered façade lit up.

Alternatives to the Empress in Victoria

• The Pendray Inn & Tea House: A smaller, historic property near the Inner Harbour offering its own tea service.
• Hotel Grand Pacific: A modern hotel with an indoor pool and views of the harbour, about 5 minutes’ walk from the Empress.
• Inn at Laurel Point: A waterfront hotel with contemporary design, less expensive than the Empress during peak seasons.

FAQs about the Empress Hotel

Sources cited

• Fairmont Empress – Our Story (official property site)
• Fairmont Empress – An Affair Steeped in History (afternoon tea)
• Historic Hotels of America – Fairmont Empress History
• Historic Hotels Then & Now – Fairmont Empress (1908)
• Famoushotels.org – Empress
• VictoriaBC.ca – The Fairmont Empress
• Vancouver Planner – Tea at the Empress
• Victoria Buzz – Over a century in review
• Times Colonist – Jack Knox column on haunted Empress