Planning a special dinner in the Grampians region? Wickens at the Royal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld is the flagship dining room of the property, with menus built around produce from its own kitchen gardens. This guide covers the tasting menu structure, pricing, guest reviews, and the restaurant’s place within a destination hotel and significant wine program — so you can decide if it’s the right choice for your trip.

Last checked: 2026-08-16

Restaurant Name: Wickens · Location: Royal Mail Hotel, Dunkeld, Grampians, Victoria · Cuisine: Modern Australian, garden-to-plate · Awards: Wine Spectator Grand Award · Chef: Robin Wickens · General Manager: Peter Dillon

How we researched this

Last checked: 2026-08-16.

Sources reviewed: official property website, TripAdvisor reviews, Wine Spectator, Gourmet Traveller, The Age Good Food Guide, Time Out Melbourne, Signature Luxury Travel & Style, Australian Good Food Guide.

We did not conduct an on-site visit, staff interviews, or independent price verification; all prices and operational details are drawn from the cited published sources and may change.

Wickens at a glance

1 Location & setting
  • Inside the Royal Mail Hotel at 98 Parker Street, Dunkeld, Victoria 3294, with views over the southern Grampians (Royal Mail Hotel)
2
Garden-to-plate focus
  • Menus built around the hotel’s kitchen gardens and nearby farms, with dishes changing regularly (Gourmet Traveller)
3
Wine program
  • Listed among Wine Spectator’s ‘Ace Australian Wine Restaurants’, with a cellar described as holding the largest privately owned Bordeaux and Burgundy collection in the Southern Hemisphere (Wine Spectator)
4
Recognition
  • Scored 16/20 by The Age Good Food Guide and ranked #54 in Gourmet Traveller’s 2019 Top 100 (The Age; Gourmet Traveller)

Wickens at Royal Mail Hotel – an overview of the restaurant

Wickens is the signature dining room at the Royal Mail Hotel, opened in late 2017 as a purpose-built space led by executive chef Robin Wickens, who had been cooking in the hotel’s dining room since 2013 (Time Out Melbourne). The restaurant operates as a standalone fine-dining venue within the hotel, offering lunch and dinner service (Royal Mail Hotel).

The menu format is degustation-style, with five- and eight-course tasting options that begin with strong-flavoured snacks and progress through garden-inspired dishes (Gourmet Traveller). Diners sit with views of the southern Grampians, and the room is described by the hotel as its flagship dining space (Royal Mail Hotel). The Australian Good Food Guide lists the restaurant as modern Australian cuisine, located on the Glenelg Highway at 98 Parker Street, Dunkeld (AGFG).

The bottom line: Wickens operates as a destination restaurant within a regional hotel, combining a fixed tasting format with produce drawn from its own gardens — a structure that rewards advance booking and sets aside a longer evening for the meal.

What is the menu at Dunkeld Hotel Royal Mail?

The menu at Wickens changes regularly, but the format has remained consistent since opening: a five-course and an eight-course Chef’s Tasting Menu, plus a separate Chef’s Table experience for up to four guests seated in the kitchen (Signature Luxury Travel & Style). A vegetarian Chef’s Tasting Menu is also available.

Wine Spectator’s 2024 overview describes two further ‘Gran Tour’ tasting menus — one meat-focused and the other vegetable-driven — each with seven courses, priced at US$120 per person, or US$200 with classic wine pairings (Wine Spectator). These sit alongside the core tasting menus, giving diners a choice between meat-forward and plant-led paths.

Gourmet Traveller’s review describes the progression of the tasting menus: they begin with snacks, move through garden-focused savoury courses, and finish with desserts such as puff pastry with quince and a ‘rotten-leaf’ ice cream (Gourmet Traveller). The kitchen also runs morning tours of the hotel’s kitchen garden, which The Age notes underpins the ambitious menus (The Age).

What this means: The menu changes daily and seasonally, so there is no fixed signature dish list — instead, the structure (five or eight courses, plus a chef’s table and Gran Tour options) gives repeat visitors a choice of formats while the kitchen rotates through what the gardens produce.

Wickens at Royal Mail Hotel reviews

Guest feedback on Wickens is predominantly positive, with TripAdvisor ranking it #1 of 9 restaurants in Dunkeld and rating it 4.7 out of 5 based on 152 reviews (TripAdvisor). The breakdown shows particularly high scores for food (around 4.8) and atmosphere (5.0), with service at 4.7 and value at 4.5.

Reviewers consistently describe the degustation format, noting multiple small dishes, palate cleansers, and complimentary tasting plates integrated into the multi-course menu (TripAdvisor review). These meals are extended affairs, often lasting several hours.

One reviewer called the experience ‘A dining experience enjoyed with awe and wonderment’, praising the creative food and attentive service (TripAdvisor review). Two reviewers mentioned pacing concerns — a February 2020 review titled ‘OK but very, very slow’ noted that while the food was strong, the meal felt slow (TripAdvisor review).

For editorial context, Gourmet Traveller ranked Wickens #54 in its 2019 Top 100 list (Gourmet Traveller), and the Good Food Guide awarded it 16/20, describing the restaurant as contemporary and noting the kitchen garden tours led by chef Robin Wickens (The Age).

Note on pacing: If a long, relaxed dinner doesn’t suit your schedule, the five-course menu is the shorter option; the eight-course format is described by reviewers as an extended evening.

The pattern: Reviews align around creative, garden-driven food and strong service, with atmosphere rated highest; the recurring caveat is the length of the meal, which suits diners looking for a full evening experience.

Wickens at Royal Mail Hotel prices

Pricing at Wickens has shifted since its opening in late 2017. At launch, the five-course Chef’s Tasting Menu was AUD $165 per person, and the eight-course menu AUD $185 (Signature Luxury Travel & Style). The Chef’s Table experience, including matched wines, cost AUD $400 per person.

Wine Spectator’s 2024 report, which converts original Australian pricing to US dollars, lists a five-course option at about US$195 per person, an eight-course menu at US$230, and a chef’s table menu at US$240, with prices subject to change (Wine Spectator). This suggests upward movement from the 2017 launch figures.

Wine matching is priced separately. At launch, the options were: a French Collection match at AUD $200 for five courses, an Australian wine match at AUD $125, and a cellar wine match at AUD $115 for five courses or AUD $145 for eight courses (Signature Luxury Travel & Style). TripAdvisor categorises Wickens at the high price point, indicated by a $$$$ rating (TripAdvisor).

Beyond the food, the Royal Mail Hotel offers garden tours at around US$13 per person (Wine Spectator), and accommodation at the hotel was reported at opening as starting from AUD $245 per night (Signature Luxury Travel & Style).

The trade-off: Wickens sits at the premium end of regional dining — a chef’s table with matched wines approaches AUD $400, while the five-course base menu is around AUD $165–195 — reflecting the garden-to-plate sourcing and a cellar with deep Bordeaux and Burgundy holdings.

Who owns the Royal Mail Hotel Dunkeld?

The Royal Mail Hotel’s official website identifies the property as the operator of Wickens, and lists contact details for reservations through the hotel’s email and phone line (Royal Mail Hotel). Beyond that, ownership details are not published in the materials reviewed for this article.

What is documented is the team structure: executive chef Robin Wickens has led the kitchen since the restaurant’s establishment in 2017, and the hotel’s public materials reference the kitchen garden tours he leads (The Age). The wine program is a central feature, with the cellar described as holding the largest privately owned Bordeaux and Burgundy collection in the Southern Hemisphere (Wine Spectator).

Why this matters: For diners, the ownership question matters less than the operator’s commitment to the garden-to-plate model — the hotel has invested in a purpose-built dining room, a large kitchen garden, and a cellar program that anchors the restaurant’s wine list.

What are some good places to eat in Dunkeld?

Wickens is the standout fine-dining option in Dunkeld, ranked #1 of 9 restaurants on TripAdvisor (TripAdvisor). For a more casual meal, the Royal Mail Hotel itself has a separate bar and bistro area that serves a more relaxed menu, though it was not the focus of this review.

The Foodie World blog describes Wickens as ‘country fine dining’, emphasising that the restaurant is the destination experience in town (The Foodie World). Given Dunkeld’s small size — approximately 9 restaurants listed on TripAdvisor — most visitors are there for the Royal Mail Hotel complex or as a stop while travelling through the Grampians.

What to watch: If Wickens is fully booked, the hotel’s casual dining options are the practical alternative; otherwise, the next nearest fine-dining venues are in the larger towns of Halls Gap and Hamilton, which are a drive away.

Our pick: Wickens for fine dining in the Grampians

Our recommendation

For travellers planning a special dinner in the Grampians, Wickens is the clear choice — it is the only restaurant in Dunkeld with a dedicated tasting menu format, a chef-led kitchen garden program, and a wine list built on a cellar of international reputation. The five-course menu at around AUD $165–195 offers the full garden-to-plate experience without the full eight-course commitment, and the Gran Tour menus provide a slightly shorter format. Book ahead, especially for weekends, as the restaurant’s limited seating and set-menu format require advance reservations.

Related reading: Heyfield Railway Hotel – Reviews, Menu, Prices & History (2026) · Albert Hotel Daylesford: Heritage Rooms, Prices & Reviews

Additional sources

tripadvisor.com.au

Frequently asked questions

What meals does Wickens serve?

Wickens serves lunch and dinner, with the dinner service typically running Thursday to Saturday from 6:00 pm until about 11:45 pm, according to TripAdvisor’s listing (TripAdvisor). The restaurant is closed Sunday through Wednesday.

Does Wickens offer wine pairing?

Yes — Wickens offers several wine matching options. At launch, these included a French Collection match at AUD $200 for five courses, an Australian wine match at AUD $125, and a cellar wine match at AUD $115 for five courses or AUD $145 for eight courses (Signature Luxury Travel & Style).

What type of cuisine is offered at Wickens?

Wickens serves modern Australian cuisine with a garden-to-plate focus, using produce from the Royal Mail Hotel’s kitchen gardens and meat from nearby farms (Gourmet Traveller). TripAdvisor categorises it as international and Australian cuisine.

What awards has Wickens won?

Wickens is listed among Wine Spectator’s ‘Ace Australian Wine Restaurants’ (Wine Spectator), scored 16/20 in The Age Good Food Guide (The Age), and ranked #54 in Gourmet Traveller’s 2019 Top 100 (Gourmet Traveller).

Who is the chef at Wickens?

The restaurant is led by executive chef Robin Wickens, who began cooking at the Royal Mail Dining Room in 2013 and became the namesake chef when the restaurant opened as a separate venue in 2017 (Time Out Melbourne).

What are the views like from Wickens?

The restaurant is framed by views of the southern Grampians, described by the official site as a key feature of the dining room setting (Royal Mail Hotel). TripAdvisor reviewers rate the atmosphere at 5.0 out of 5 (TripAdvisor).

Where is Wickens located?

Wickens is located at 98 Parker Street (Glenelg Highway), Dunkeld, Victoria 3294, Australian Good Food Guide confirms (AGFG). The restaurant is inside the Royal Mail Hotel.

Key facts at a glance

DetailInformation
Restaurant nameWickens
Location98 Parker Street, Dunkeld, Victoria 3294, Australia
CuisineModern Australian, garden-to-plate
ChefRobin Wickens
Meals servedLunch, dinner
Menu formatFive- and eight-course tasting menus, Gran Tour menus, chef’s table
Wine programWine Spectator ‘Ace Australian Wine Restaurant’; cellar holds largest privately owned Bordeaux and Burgundy collection in Southern Hemisphere
Awards & ratingsGood Food Guide 16/20; Gourmet Traveller #54 (2019); TripAdvisor 4.7/5 (#1 of 9 in Dunkeld)
Opening hours (dinner)Thursday–Saturday from 6:00 pm, subject to change
Reservationsrelax@royalmail.com.au or +61 3 5577 2241

Note on sources: Prices cited from Wine Spectator (2024) are in US dollars, converted from original Australian pricing and subject to fluctuation. All other prices are in Australian dollars as published by the cited sources. Data current as of July 2025.

The bottom line: Note on sources: Prices cited from Wine Spectator (2024) are in US dollars, converted from original Australian pricing and subject to fluctuation. All other prices are in Australian dollars as published by the cited sources. Data current as of July 2025.